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Dharamsala is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh, famed for its large Tibetan community centered around the Dalai Lama. The Tibetan Buddhist roots of Dharamsala stretch back into the 8th century, although most of the local population long since reverted to (and remains) Hindu. "Dharamsala" literally means an "inn attached to a temple", and it was so until the district headquarters in Kangra became too crowded and the British moved 2 of their regiments in the late 1840s to what is now Dharamsala. This over the years grew to be district headquarters of Kangra, and the very location is now known as the Police Lines. Dharamsala was mooted to be the summer capital of India. But this was not to be, as much of the town was destroyed in the 7.8 magnitude earthquake of 4th April 1905, which killed over 10,000 people in this sparsely populated area. After falling into obscurity in the early days of Indian independence, Dharamsala regained some social standing in 1959 with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile. Currently, it is a very popular hang-out for foreigners and students of Buddhism. Indeed, it is now perhaps a little too popular - many would say the town (esp. McLeod Ganj) is little more than a backpacker ghetto. Don't come here expecting calm and tranquillity. Dharamsala (pronounced Dharamsala) is best known as the home of the Dalai Lama. In fact, the Tibetan government in exile is based just uphill in Gangchen Kyishong, and most travellers stay uphill in the busy little traveller town of McLeod Ganj. Dharamsala itself has a good museum and a busy bazaar, but most people only come here to catch a bus. The State Bank of India (10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) accepts travellers cheques and changes cash and there's an ATM in the main bazaar. The Himachal Emporium (224185; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) on the main road sells Kullu shawls and Tibetan carpets for Rs 3500 upwards.

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