Pakbeng Hotels

The halfway point on the Mekong, Pakbeng sits midway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. As the Mekong was once the only major transport route in the country, Pakbeng developed as an overnight stop for both cargo and passenger ferries. As this route down the Mekong is so spectacular, it remains a popular transport route, and Pakbeng is flourishing. Set in a particularly scenic spot, where the Nam Beng flows into the Mekong (Pak means mouth, and Beng is the name of the river), the town itself doesn't have a lot to offer but a number of guesthouses and restaurants have sprung up catering to backpackers. Electricity is newly arrived and very erratic. It is run from a hydroelectric dam in the Beng river, so when there is no water in the dry season, electricity is scarce, and during the wet season it runs 24 hours. Most guesthouses have generators running 18:00-22:00. In the early morning, as most travellers are making their way down to the boats, the street is lined with stalls piled with drinks and freshly-made sandwiches. Restaurants serve breakfast early, with baguettes, Lao coffee and pancakes with condensed milk all specialties. For a more 'Lao' experience, head up to the early morning market and have a look at all the local produce including dried buffalo skin, frogs on sticks, pigs face and buffalo hooves. Perhaps purchase a few Lao sweets, such as coconut jelly, fried bananas or sweet donuts, or have a delicious filling breakfast of noodle soup, at 5,000 kip a bowl (without meat is bo sai sin).