Songkhla, Thailand

The small, sophisticated former trading port of SONGKHLA makes a much pleasanter alternative to Hat Yai, 25km away. It retains many historic buildings, including the graceful Chinese mansion which now houses the Songkhla National Museum (Wed–Sun 9am–noon & 1–4pm; ). Iit's on Thanon Jana, the main east–west street, and contains a jumble of folk exhibits, Chinese ceramics and furniture, and Hindu and Buddhist statues. From the museum, you can explore the atmospheric old streets of Nakhon Nai and Nakhon Nawk on your way south to Wat Matchimawat, a grand affair set in ornamental grounds on Thanon Saiburi. Every centimetre of the bot's interior is covered with murals, telling of the previous lives of the Buddha, mixed in with vivacious tableaux of nineteenth-century Songkhla life. Sitting on the fringe of town at the southern end of Hat Samila – the 8km of beach along the eastern shore – Khao Saen is an impoverished but vibrant fishing village, whose multicoloured boats provide Songkhla's most hackneyed postcard image. Buses from Hat Yai and other main towns arrive at the major junction of Thanon Ramwithi with Jana and Platha roads. Share taxis congregate on the south side of the main bus stop, just off Thanon Ramwithi. Narai, 14 Thanon Chai Khao is Songkhla's bottom-end hotel, situated in a quiet wooden house at the foot of Doi Tung Kuan. A good alternative is the welcoming Abritus Guest House, 28/16 Thanon Ramwithi. Which has large, clean rooms, and great breakfasts and other Western food. Also excellent value is the clean and easygoing Amsterdam Guest House, at 15/3 Thanon Rong Muang on the north side of the museum. Mountain bikes and motorbikes can be rented here. Songkhla's most famous restaurant, Raan Tae, at 85 Thanon Nang Ngarm, is justly popular, serving especially good seafood – but it closes between 2 and 5pm and after 8pm. A good spot for breakfasts and pancakes is LoBo Café at 10/1 Thanon Jana, where you can also rent motorbikes or cars. The night market sets up south of the post office on Thanon Nakhon Nai. A ghetto of Westernized bars and restaurants on Saket, Sisuda and Sadao roads caters to workers from the offshore oil rigs. You can treat yourself to pizza or waffles while surfing the net at E-Milk (11am–9pm), at 72 Thanon Saiburi.